How To Treat Different Types Of Hyper-pigmentation And Melasma - Women's Health

The quest for a radiant complexion at any age doesn't have to be daunting. We've gathered truly feasible ways to defeat discolouration and score fantastic skin.

There are many reasons discolouration occurs, each requiring a slightly different treatment strategy. Here, derms explain how to tackle the top causes of hyperpigmentation and melasma to snag healthy, balanced skin.

Melasma

Melasma is unique in the way it shows up in widespread patches on the cheeks, above the upper lip, or forehead. You may have heard it called "the mask of pregnancy", because hormonal fluctuations play a key role here, says derm Dr Corey Hartman. While the exact cause is unknown, any combo of hormones, sun exposure, and heat can trigger the onset.

The skin tone factor
"I see melasma equally across all skin types," says dermatologist Dr Y. Claire Chang, who adds that it's actually a genetic factor, rather than your skin colour, that makes you predisposed to this particular condition.

Treatment plan for melasma
Melasma is one of the most challenging types of discolouration to treat because the pigment can exist in both the superficial epidermal layer of the skin and the deeper dermal ones, says Dr Jordan C. Carqueville, medical director of the Derm Institute of Chicago. Targeting it in both layers will yield the best results, but that's tricky to do. For surface discolouration, dermatologists recommend in-office peels or laser treatments, but proceed with caution as some can end up exacerbating melasma.

The best skincare products to shop for melasma

IT COSMETICS Bye Bye Dark Spots Niacinamide Serum: This do-it-all ingredient quells redness, calms acne scarring, and plays nice with sensitive types.

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Cosmedix Refine Refinishing Treatment: This cruelty-free vitamin A treatment renews damaged skin by boosting cell turnover and improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

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Andalou Brightening Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask: With pumpkin purée, manuka honey, and glycolic acid, this bargain-worthy beauty buy smooths and exfoliates to reveal a refreshed complexion.

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Sun-Induced Pigmentation

When your skin is exposed to the sun and isn't protected with sunscreen, melanocytes – the skin cells responsible for producing melanin, or pigment – go into overdrive. "It's a protective response. Your skin is producing extra melanin to shield the internal structure of the skin cells and their DNA," says Chang. That extra pigment then shows up as brown spots.

The skin tone factor
Broadly speaking, "people with lighter skin are more susceptible to experiencing visible sun-induced discolouration," says Carqueville. "Darker skin types have more melanin and different types of it, which means they have slightly more natural sun protection compared to people with lighter skin," says Chang.

However, experts are quick to underscore the fact that this does not – we emphatically repeat, does not – mean those with darker skin tones get a free pass.

Not to mention that just because you may not see as many spots on darker skin doesn't mean other signs of sun damage (such as collagen and elastin breakdown) aren't happening.

Treatment plan for sun-induced pigmentation
Daily sunscreen is a non-negotiable, but alongside that, vitamin C is one of the best ingredients to look for. It's an antioxidant that neutralises damaging free radicals caused by sun exposure and brightens the skin by inhibiting the action of tyrosinase, an enzyme necessary for pigment production, says Chang. (It can also help fade existing dark spots.) Use it in the a.m. before sunscreen, and reach for a retinoid at night.

The best skincare products to shop for sun-induced pigmentation

The Jojoba Company Pigmentation Oil with Carrot & TYROSTAT™: With naturally derived ingredients including skin-brightening beta carotene and vitamin C and buriti oils, this one nixes dullness, wrinkles, and moisture loss.

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RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Serum 30 Capsules: Slough away dead skin cells and boost collagen production to stave off wrinkles too.

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Olay Luminous Niacinamide + Vitamin C Cream: Brighten up dull skin with Olay's bestselling citrus-scented, silky, lightweight cream. It contains vitamins C and B3 (niacinamide) plus lactic acid to rejuvenate.

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Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

Also known as PIH, this discolouration occurs as a response to inflammation in the skin that can be caused by anything from eczema and acne, to bug bites and burns.

"When there's inflammation, the skin cells are disrupted and melanin spills out," says Carqueville. It's for this reason that Hartman refers to PIH as "a stain of inflammation."

The skin tone factor
PIH shows up differently based on your skin tone. In darker skin, where there's more melanin that can "spill out," it manifests as dark spots. In lighter skin tones, PIH more often manifests as red spots, a result of increased red blood cells brought to the area to heal the inflammation, says Carqueville.

Treatment plan
The best way to treat PIH depends on your skin colour. (Though one common denominator is avoiding inciting the fire in the first place – eg, not pimple popping, not picking at scabs, etc.) Topically, Chang says anti-inflammatory niacinamide is a safe bet that may be used for pigmentation in general.

For darker skin, many experts recommend hydroquinone. (It bears mentioning this ingredient has some questionable side effects and can't be used for more than several months at a time, so discuss with your dermatologist first.)

Keep in mind that the pigment associated with PIH is found deep in the skin, meaning lasers will give best results. That said, not all lasers are equal; some can burn and scar darker skin.

The best skincare products to shop for post-inflammatory pigmentation

The Ordinary 100% L-Ascorbic Acid Powder: Harnessing the power of an ultra-fine vitamin C powder, this affordable multi-purpose brightener can be added to water, toners, essences, moisturisers and many other skincare products.

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Biologi Bd Luminosity Face Serum: Biologi's cult-facial serum is an all-in-one complexion perfector that treats complexions of all kinds including dull, sun-damaged, ageing, acne and break-out prone, allergy-prone, oily, and sensitive.

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John Plunkett's SuperFade Face Treatment Cream: This one contains a potent 2% concentration of hydroquinone – the highest you can get for over-the-counter preparations.

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